...so i just got off the phone to esslinger racing only to find out they stopped making solids for the 2.0.....got offered a 600 lift thing but was full hydraulic and total cost would set me back 2k...and cam would kick in at 5000 rpm. 
 
Feel Free to share knowledge and experience on suitable turbo camshafts/
 
cheers'
 
ez'

Stock cam?

Wade, waggot, crow, camtech, and tighe all can do custom profiles.

Need to know what you are trying to do with the car and engine.

ITFKSU

...so i just got off the phone to esslinger racing only to find out they stopped making solids for the 2.0.....got offered a 600 lift thing but was full hydraulic and total cost would set me back 2k...and cam would kick in at 5000 rpm. 

Feel Free to share knowledge and experience on suitable turbo camshafts/

cheers'

ez'

 
OK,
 
You need to be more specific about your engine internals, and what you want to do with the car, where you want the power etc etc etc.
 
IMO, looking at your build thread you are limited to std rods and cast pistons.  This means max of 6500-7000rpm, and not too much boost or you're asking for trouble.
 
.600" lift is a complete waste of time unless your head still gains flow at that amount of lift (I highly doubt it), and you're planning to rev it to oblivian.
 
The other thing (if your build thread is still current) is that you're planning on LPG??  If that is the case don't be fooled into thinking you can run big amounts of boost because the octane is higher.  Those days are long gone, LPG is now far too inconsistant.  On my N/A builds now I won't give any LPG car any more than about 9.5-10:1 comp, otherwise there have been issues.
 
All that asside, LPG relies more so on air speed IMO than the equiv ULP engine, and generally doesn't like big cams, or cams with massive amounts of overlap for that reason.  Cam specs should remain the same as the equiv N/A, accept for the lobe centre line which I would bring up 2-3 degrees, and if you want the power band in a similar spot you would generally come back one profile. 
 
The cam I have used for 2500-7000rpm in turbo form has around 230@50, .415"ish lift, 270 deg and lobe centres of around 112 deg.
 
Cheers
Woz

My 2c after running a turbo pinto for a few years, starting with an SU 175 carb, then 45 DCOE weber then finally Efi with inter cooler.

Cam lift is important (for power and tourque). Generally the higher the maximum lift, then the lift at 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4 lift is also greater than a cam with less max lift. This means "greater area under the curve", which is the all important power maker.

Ideally, your cam would be relatively short duration with fast ramp up and down to give the maximum area under the curve, unfortunately this is limited by mechanical sympathy to the valve train, so a 270 deg 500" lift cam will probably wipe itself out very quickly. Bring on electronic valve actuation!

The best compromise I found with a turbo cam was 475" lift, 290 degree (seat) duration with a 108 lca (if i can recall correctly).

This gave a little bit of lag, but sung out to 6750 rpm really nicely with a t3 turbo on a 0.63 exh housing.

6750 rpm is safe for a well prepped standard rod and standard crank, although I did run second hand forged pistons. This setup lasted me for 10 years of casual competition work, and is still sitting in the garage as a spare engine.

A good upgrade was to move to a gt28 series BB turbo, this reduced the lag by a few hundred rpm.

Most cam grinders will do an NA spec cam with the lca opened out a little to reduce overlap. This is the easiest way to go.

By the way, hydraulic cam on a pinto? I've never heard of them. Do you simple mean a non-roller cam?

Hey guys wow late reply i know.....\
 
thanks a lot for sharing the experience on this subject.....
 
Ash- Hydraulic meaning roller, esslinger sells the conversion kit but its pricey.
 
Woz , thanks for the feedback much appreciated the cam i'm going to be running was ground up by Clive and will have .294 lift at the lobe.

Hey Ez,
 
What have done on this since last posting?  
 
Matt

Hey Matt....Haven't done a whole lot , was a bit short in the pocket for a bit but i'm back on board now...
 
made up some new engine mount brackets to push the motor back an inch but now the c10 auto hits the tunnel where before didn't so i gotta cut the tunnel now and raise it so the engine can sit straight, as soon as I've done that ill be moving to the rear end and fitting the tubs and doing a bunch of rust repairs like Shaun has done,
 
and the list goes on and on heheheheh