ash

Who or what is the RAT? Zaps rat? I think he's using outlaw calipers :)

Mr Lotus, I totally agree that the stopping power of the M16's is good - I've run DS3000's in them and found them to be awesome from a stopping power point of view lap after lap. The only issue was reliability (pistons) and the relatively small disc (Capri 2.8) that had to try and contain the heat (not entirely the calipers fault, but a side effect of what can fit within it). Again, no fade - ever - with DS3000's, but the discs would crack after just a few sessions, so time for bigger discs and some cooling.

Barbagallo is meant to be a bvgger of a track for braking systems - maybe that has something to do with it.

Road car? Not a problem - M16's with a "fast road" pad - add the capri discs and spacers for the odd track day. Ferodo TS2000's are good (also called "FF"'s), but I dont think you can get them anymore. Mintex M1144's were also pretty good - again, not sure they are still available. Having to find something for my daily GC8 (never tracked) and not having much luck myself.

Ash

Yes Zap's RAT, I don't think he relies too much on the front calipers though.
 
The main reason for rotors cracking is not heat cycling them properly and thermal shock. Smaller surface cracking is normal, most of rotors we use were never expected to see the temps that go through them, I've turned temp paint to +700c on solid rotors, T16's, Hawk HT-10's and Motul fluid without the pedal dropping at all. Those rotors stayed on the car till pads were changed.

Pretty sure that "T16" is actually an M16 (metric) or P16 (imperial).....

And yes no matter what discs and calipers you use, the pad material is critical and THE most important factor. Good fluid and regular bleeding for a car that sees track work is also needed. For a track car also make sure you use your cool down lap to cool your discs (whatever diameter), as hot discs left to sit in between hot pads will cool slower than hot discs in air - leading to warped or cracked disc....

The reference "T16" is "Type 16", thread and mount hole size is not relevant in this context. 

Great thread
I have been looking at all kinds of brake set ups for a road car that I occasionally do sprints in. As I experienced some fade in the first couple of outings I was looking at some fancy, caliper and master cylinder set up.
I think the order of the day now though, will be to look at changing to better fluid and spending more money on the pads. Out of interest, which way would people go on master cylinder set up, again bearing in mind the car will be sticking with the original set up, maybe just changing to vented discs?
Once again thanks guys, even though people don't often take part in the topics, as in posting, a lot of information can be just by following.

If you did as you suggested in changing the fluid and upgraded to better pads then this mod alone would make an amazing difference to the braking performance.
 
If you still got fade then upgrading to braided lines and then vented and bigger discs would be a logical step.
 
Then if you still need more improvement then you'd look at bigger calipers, pedal box etc..
 
No need to go straight to pedal box and 4 pots if you don't need them.
 
Cheers
 
Matt
 

Thanks again. I will get some new pads this arvo, change the fluid and back out at QR this weekend and see the difference.!!

Cool,
 
Check out the link I posted in the brakes section for some free brake fluid.
 
What pads are you going to get?  Post your feedback / results after the weekends run too.
 
Matt 

Thought about ebc green pads or Bendix ultimate. Don't want to go too extreme as its still a road car as well

I am about to buy a set of QFM A1RM's.
 
I have heard good things and they aren't super expensive at $119 a set from GSL RallySport.
 
Cheers
 
Matt

Got 2 pairs of the EBC Greenstuff pads a couple of years ago, for the Volvo calipers and an EL V8 wagon 'i had.....
Have not used the volvo ones on the escort yet, but i can give you feedback on the ones used on the Falcon.... Brilliant pad with superior grip, feel and fade resistance, however they were quite "dirty" pads leaving all 4 wheels black with brake dust quite quickly, and they were quite aggressive on the discs too eating into the discs.  Bit expensive for a roadie and for roadies I now use Bendix General CT or HD CT for towing duties and they seem 99.9% as good, much less dust, not aggressive on the discs, 1/3 the price and widely available.  For the race/autocross Escort cars I use "NM" compound pads from BGT brakes in Hawthorn or Dandenong after seeing a review in  magazine years ago, and not really had any problems with them.  I would hazard a guess though that there are some newer stye compounds that do a similar job too (or better).... And the article would have to have been at least 15 years ago...
 
I am always reticent to change from something I know that "works well" as over the years I have been given bum steers in pads (stay WELL clear of MaxiStop Pads- a 1/2 ton block of concrete on a chain would have been better...), oils (the red Helix ruins bearings/pumps when it gets hot), oil pumps (Mellings had very poor QC on hardnesses) and strut tops (No Scorpion ones do Not fit!).......