Both Volvo ATE and Girling (right ones to use) have spaced and non spaced to suit vented and non vented discs(as per Ford M16's). If using vented use the spaced version, if solid use the non spaced version obviously... Use the Girling as they provide the benefit over the M16 with more pad area (in addition to the 4 spots). The ATE have pads only the same size as a M16..... and all 3 are cast iron and heavy...

Matt75

Mk1 Lotus,

I have never heard of spacing the Volvo calipers before.  Can you elaborate a bit more?

You also need to space the Type 16 caliper too don't you?

Cheers,

Matt 

 
Yes you do space T16 but complete kit cost should be no more $44.
 
Volvo Girling requires drilling calipers for single brake line use, Volvo's are very safe Girling is a twin circuit caliper, can be done well or rough. Then the mounting centres need to be moved, the lugs need to machined to avoid pad over hang, then you have grind the steering arm because there is still not enough clearence then, in my experience you need to make bridge spacers and lug spacers to centre over over rotor.
 
Best bit Girling run 4 small pistons that don't cover the swept volume of a T16 anyway, yes you get a bigger pad but why do you need it? 

Volvo Calipers will either need cross drilling or do a t piece in the line (or get new flex lines with in built t piece ends like GDUB and I have done). Mounting centres do need to be elongated - doing it properly will not leave the pad overhanging the disc and lugs do not need machining and steering arms do not need touching at all. Better pedal feel than the spaced out M16 and less effort for slightly more retardation... other than the time and effort needed to modify the mounting, is actually quite easy and have now done it twice...

Na.Charrett,
 
Can you post some pics of the t-piece you used as it sounds interesting.
 
I got these from a dude in the states which accomplishes the same thing of not needing to cross drill the calipers.
 
Matt
 


 
 

i think you got me my set of those too as i have the same ones
 

Sure did!
 
Shoot me a PM if you want more info on how I set up the calipers.
 
Cheers
 
Matt

na.charrett

Volvo Calipers will either need cross drilling or do a t piece in the line (or get new flex lines with in built t piece ends like GDUB and I have done). Mounting centres do need to be elongated - doing it properly will not leave the pad overhanging the disc and lugs do not need machining and steering arms do not need touching at all. Better pedal feel than the spaced out M16 and less effort for slightly more retardation... other than the time and effort needed to modify the mounting, is actually quite easy and have now done it twice...

 
I'm sorry but depending on what disc diameter you run what I have said stands as most things I deal with are limited to 247mm.
 
No matter how you look at it T16's are best bang for buck and more than capable.
 
If anyone wants to do some comparative investigation on how things stop and go look at some Grp N push rod and Lotus Cortina lap times using 244 x 12.7  solid rotors and T16's and then check on Volvo shod car times from the same tracks.

Given most volvo conversions are done using a 260mm rotor it is difficult to make a comparison between the 2.
 
At the end of the day take they are both proven performers.
 
Me, I'd go the the volvo's over the T16's as per the original post.
 
Matt

how does a volvo caliper hold up against an early hilux 4 pot caliper. my assumption is pad variety. i was wrong thinking the volvos were alloy hence the attraction

I have only ever used the standard diameter discs with the Volvo and they do work fine with no pad overhang if the mounting holes are modified correctly...
From a technical point either increasing the pad area or the disc diameter will increase the effectiveness of the brakes by giving more bite (leaverage). With the normal sized discs and larger pad area, this will put more heat into the disc so vented are worthwhil for racing where you are going to use the brakes alot. I always make sure that after a sprint I use virtually no brakes on the cool down lap to allow the brakes to cool or they will warp the disc.

Given the cost of a spacer kit for the M16 calioers has to be bought and then installed in the calipers vs the cost of a secondhand set of Volvo calipers I would argue that the Volvo work out slightly cheaper. However if you already had good pads for your existing M16 vs buying good pads for the Volvo then costwise the balance tips back to the M16... both are cast iron and relatively heavy so not really much in it there.

With the hilux caliper, it ultimately depends upon the mounting lugs and how close they are to the M16 ones. That is why Volvo are used as they are relative close to the M16 lug spacong and can be easily modified.

Cannot get any photos ATM, as I am virtually bedridden after a back operation and not allowed to bend let alone crawl under cars... I did my original ones by using early mk2 t piece (off the early 2 pipe master cyl cars) and makiking up a couple of very short hard lines that goe from the caluper inlets to the t piece and the standard escort flex line. For the second conversion I did for the rally car (not actually finished yet) Gdub got some custom flex lines that actually have dual outlets at the strut end - so no separate t piece and only 2 simple solid lines to the 2 caliper inlets. I have also seen the dual caliper manifold used as mentioned above an if you are going to rebuild them you can also cross drill the 2 inlets joining them an then out a blank on the lower inlet to use a single solid line...

Don't get me wrong, I have M16's on the motorkha, Autocross and road escorts, but for the race and rally escorts where I need that little extra reliable front brake, I have the standard diameter vented escort discs with volvos.s. the race car has done over 100,000km and a number of sprints and hillclimbs without any front brake issues ever in the last 15 years since it was done. I wish all other mods were so trouble free.... in fact the the only front calipers I ever had issues with were a spaced.M16 and currently a stock M16 with a sticky pisto, but that cold potentially I cur for any older caliper.. the most recent one even cooked the fluid to the point that the pedal dropped to the floor and it burnt the dust seals off while driving sedately on the road... it did however get a pedal back and make it back home 2 hours later and pulling apart and cleaning and replacing the stock bits was quite easy too.

Just my opinion though from my 24 years of playing with escorts.