Nose cone wont go back on till the very end, I feel the same way and want it to be a one and done type thing.

Yah the large mounts have a helpful LH / RH stamp and the only other mount that has a side is the lower inner spacer. its a little shorter than the top one because the light mount is shorter at the bottom - its actually the one I forgot to take to the powder coaters the other day so I had one to help me line everything up!


 
I finished cleaning up the left hand indicator and chucked it in, I do need to replace the screws still though cause they didn't clean up as well as I would like. There is also a sneaky little mod in this photo that will be critical for something I have planned.... Secrets!!

PartTimeMK2
 
Also can I just say this forum is awesome, I found a post from like 11 years ago with the proper exploded diagram for the RS front headlights, I wanted to double check I had everything right and of course the forum had the answer! Drewdog even used it for his and commented on it .
 
Alright next on the list is cleaning up the indicators and getting them ready to go back on.

Haha I remember looking at my box of headlight bits and thinking sh!t should've taken some pictures...
Theres a copy of the Ford parts catalogue going around if you need detailed exploded pics. I'm not too tech savvy but would be happy to send you a copy on a dongle thingy or maybe one of the other boys could send it via voodoo, sorry I mean electronically🤣
 
As for the headlight bezels, another vote for chrome and don't skimp make sure its a reputable plater that triple plates, they won't last otherwise.

Hey Mark have you seen those packs of metric bolts sold on AliExpress or ebuy for these silly items we come across. M3, M4, M5 cap head stainless with nuts in a tidy lunchbox of 500+ pieces for about $15
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mrSoVhX
Might never use the lot but good to know they are handy. I've been using these for my build and other stuff.

Spent a little more time today and got the drivers indicator cleaned up and mounted it, also got a horn I bought over a year ago mounted. That's all I can do for now in this area until the other bits get back from powder coating and a few more parts arrive. I also need to pick up a few gromets for the inner wings for the headlight wiring looms. 


 
While I had all the cleaning bits out I tackled the fuse box, it was pretty beat up with some oxidization on a few of the pins. I think it's come up good, all I need is a new gasket and it can go on.


 

At the moment it looks like a American 5mph bumper bar they used to have. Coming along steadily.
Would be great if there was a way to convert the old fuse style to modern blade ones , might look into that..
Should be able to get a fuse gasket local from your Ford mate, if not 3d print to the rescue. I'm getting measurements from the diff centre bush for the HB bar and will tackle it on Tinkercad this eve , I'm guessing it's a round bush not D shape. Will make from TPU so it's got flex. Also I was going to try to design the floor bungs to make , will see..

I'm getting a 3d printer for Christmas - super excited! There are plenty of single row fuse boxes out there, if I were to go down that path I would consider just leaving the stock fuse box as "decorative" - i.e mounted with the fuses in but not connected - then just wire up a new box with a loom extension underneath it. Would make accessing the fuses a bit of a pain but would keep the look.
 
That SS bolt box would be very handy, I like SS for things that aren't structural but everything else gets 8.8. Apparently SS has crappy sheer and has a higher chance to fatigue and break.  

That's good news your getting a 3d printer, Deano and I can help you out if needed 👍 , maybe start with using petg as it's a bit trickier with settings than pla , the slicer will get it in the ballpark, then it's your job to adjust a few things here n there. You'll enjoy creating stuff in CAD and seeing it evolve into a real part.

Correct, SS isn't very strong so can't be used on any mild stress point. Those little kits are handy, mine is being used up on the heater box, grill etc , added to rivnuts has been a good combo !
Yerp, 8.8 or 10.8 grade is the go

Good idea with the dummy fuse block, putting the old ceramic fuses in, with the legit one in the footwell.
I know from the "Stainless' bolts on the boat it can be a misnomer, I have some structural ones to replace shortly as a precaution. If they are oxygen starved, then hidden corrosion can be detrimental on a boat.

Re SS. On the boats I use Tef-Gel to stop the stainless galling. Especially in contact with aluminium.
The only time I have ever seen SS fail was a trailer winch eye on the bow of a boat. Clean snapped.
 
On the escort build one of the in-situ lower control arm adjusters seized up on its 5/8" thread, (the other end is 9/16" LHT). I was stunned as the car had not even been off the hoist. I had to get a new tube nut made here as MST wanted a kidney. So i have lubed all the threads with copious amounts of anti seize.
 

yes PM if anyone doesnt have a PDf copy.
And Drew, I finally got around. Are you still at same address?