I bent up the replacement part on the weekend, getting quite good at these now lol. Here's the patch in place to check fitment etc..


Welded in and smoothed with flap disc, done very very slowly and lightly to reduce heat distortion, I still had to hammer it in some spots to neaten up
This is the jacking plate also fitted and plug Welded

That was my satdy rvo

Marty, which brand of bead roller did you get? Also do you find it easier with two people, one on either side?
Mark

Hi Mark
This bead roller came from Ozmestore1 at just under $300 here in Adelaide, generic brand item but came with 6x dies which helps start off with. It's needs mods done like what I've done and it has some flex in the frame so I'll be welding RHS box to it at a later date..
Yes it's best to have a extra set of arms to do the cranking, I've recently fitted a sport steering wheel to mine raided from the panelvan lol

Here's the racing bead roller haha, all the dies are on pins welded to the legs of the bench

 
Thanks Marty, I will invest in one, as I think the English Wheel I contemplated was a bit optimistic. I reckon there are enough off the shelf guards etc to waste time even thinking I could make one. The bead roller will be handy for strengthening small patches, tunnels etc like you have done. Great work by the way.
I bet the wheel lets you bead faster

forgot to mention this one has a throat of 490mm. I recommend to get as big as possible and secure it to something solid as well. The steering wheel make life easier .
Also in my tools is a 3 in 1 folder, roller, guillo , this is what I've made the sills with , prolly could've used the bead roller for them small zigzag folds , I'm hoping to make an adjustable guide to keep the part straight when swaging..

so your rotisserie has disk brakes, and your bead roller sports a deep dish.
Anything you want to confess to us Marty regarding your guillotine or Mig?
 
Was that a new piece of virgin metal used for the last sill repair?
Some of the youtubes i've seen swear by older or donor panels due to their curves or steel gauge.
What does everyone use for normal panelwork ?
 

Haha, Deano of never seen it like that ! My garden hose has a sunraysia 4x4 wheel and my mountain bike has a bias pedalbox... Just joking with the last one 😜.
As for metal for panels I used to use stuff like falcon wagon roof skin and bonnets, plenty of metal there. I'm currently using a sheet of 1.2mm annealed (rust proof) I got from a salvage yard, it's painted black on one side, I've still got the left over sheet from doing the yellow van and a whole bunch of other sheets ranging from 0.9mm to 8mm !

Marty and Deano,
I use the cold rolled sheet because I was lead to believe it was more malleable? I find it excellent to work with but will rust up fairly quickly if left sitting for too long. Not helped by the fact that I live on the coast!
I generally get a sheet of 19 gauge (~1.0mm).
Do you know if the annealed (heat treated) is more workable (ductile) or are we talking about the same thing????
 
As for the bead roller I will get the biggest throat I can and bolt it to my steel bench which weighs a lot.
Mark

From what I've read about annealed or zinc annealed is it's primary job is for car bodies and industrial fridges etc, it does bend without stressing, plus it's got that grey coating that holds back rust... I've had sheets on the weather for years on end and have only got rust on the tampered or scratched edges .. Mark, you should use this stuff , a full sheet costs about $80 from steel outlets ,I use 1.2mm as it's easier to weld being thicker..

Have a look at Kaka industrial, or Google up bead roller sales will bring up lots to choose from, getting a bunch of dies with it is something to look for as well , buying them separately will cost a packet, I bought the folding pr (1 is a skateboard wheel) . Next on your list is a shrinker stretcher machine!!