There's a guy on yt called Render Garage, he stacked his Torana SLR into a tree now it's being restored properly, in the meantime render guy is/has 3d printed SLR arches but was sliced in sections and glued.
Also Retro power cars use printers to make consoles, dash panels, prototyping intakes etc. Size isn't a factor, I scanned mk1 6 dial dash and had to print in 2 parts

oww, Marty is too modest.
I just gave him a few tips early on, enough to nudge him over a hurdle with the printer he already had, then before long, he's a monster. In return, he hooked me into Ali Express and sourcing bits overseas and from different models.
 
Marty prints out way more than I have done to date already. I ordered a new laptop to drive a better cad program, but then havent had the motivation to invest in learning the drawing skills as it's more fun in the garage, so I lost interest for now. Plus its abit like work for me.
 
But everything Marty said is spot on. I'd also look at the Bambu Labs printers too.
https://3dprintersuperstore.com.au/pages/bambu-lab 
 
what you can get for under $1000 is pretty amazing.
The $12K Makerbot Carbon machine we have at work is selling now for $4,500.
 
Just be prepared for prints not to automatically work first time, although is getting better.
Theres lots to tweak, and printing still takes along time generally.

Thanks for the input Deano.
I used autocad for years and then transitioned into 3D. It will be interesting to see how many brain cells I have left, and working? The laptop I bought for doing the tune on the cars should be up for the job.
My cousin over in Japan is a guru in these things (and more). 
I will organise a skype and I can hash out with him these thoughts you guys have forwarded 

One thing on my printer which has crapped out is the bed leveler probe, it just kept going down and tunnelled itself into a few sticks, so now I do it the traditional way with paper as a gap, also the filament sensor kept saying empty so that has been turned off, it's prolly just full of debris blocking the pickup. Just small things

yeah well then you'll be way ahead of the learning curve.
For anyone else, the simplest program to get running designwise with is Tinkercad, also made by Autocad, and free. I bought Rhino, then a newer upgraded release, and its paused there. 
Just check maybe what filaments youd want to use, things like carbon are abraisive on the print 'nozzle, and are often an extra option. A heated bed, enclosure, and larger build size are nicer features rather than having 5 colours available, unless you are into skulls and stuff!

True on the carbon petg filament I used, thick it's the same for glow in the dark is also abrasive. I forgot to fit the hardened nozzle and by the end of printing the exterior wall light backings, the nozzle went from 0.4mm to nearly 1mm , suppose nozzles are cheap as and I don't cry over a blocked or bored out nozzle, just swap it out...

Very little work on my car as I've been rewiring the CNC table as some things were not as I liked and I received an update to smooth out the circuits. Between that and mowing the paddock I did the last part of welding on the rally pack in the boot, of the viewers remember I made a boot for panel to replace the rusty sections . My measurements came up spot on too with the rib lines, only 2 was out by 2mm but nothing a few belts with the hammer couldn't fix.
Here is the hole I cut for the new panel

Checking fitment and locking it in place with cleco pins

I did the Fitzee cut n butt method which works well on a big part like this

Tacked and then fully welded


I will clean up the welds this weekend and beat any wobbly areas back straight, but with it being a boot floor, I won't be spending much time doing it..

Nice work Marty, did you cut and butt weld as you went around?

Yeah, thanks mate, it seems to reduce buckling as well, tho some is unavoidable, it can be tapped back in line. When doing the cut/butt method you can see the panel underneath slowly falling away as you go around. My first cut was about 2in inside the line so I could cleco the panel down to then cut n weld over a few beers so the warp doesn't set in !

dvd nite and came across this brilliant piece. Buckle you seatbelt and watch this vid, original from 2001 I have in the collection.
https://youtu.be/Jz1HS8jlm08?si=tx3Fd1sK5scebaJh