Inserts arrived the other day, just thought to show the price, I could've got Capri ones but what's the fun in that !

This is what's inside, 2x new inserts and a lot of padding

So the plan was they'd pop right into the RAV4 towers but was not to be, I had to shave down the bearing locater, as they didn't fit in the lathe I had to do them by hand with a grinder being ever so light and checking as I go, they fit fine now.
The next part is cut the Capri tubes down, and since I need the threaded top part. The theory is to cut the tube in the area but not the same spot as the lower spring platform will be welded but hopefully have the welded tube hidden behind the platform.
The Celica inserts are about 35-40mm shorter than Capri so I cut the tube at the 100mm mark and then cut the top piece to size with the gland nut in so it doesn't bottom out

Tomorrow I've got a home grown tool I'm making to hold the strut tube while welding. It's basically a short length of RHS with holes cut on opposing sides with welded nuts and bolts to hold the tube in place, this should stop the tube from becoming bent . I will Tig the tube together once it's been tacked with a MIG

I hope this little tool will work with exhaust tubes later on...

Got making the box tool this morning , used 10mm nuts and long bolts , it simply pushes the tube to the opposite side and as long it's clean it'll be straight and square.

Here is the strut tube in the tool ready to weld up



Then I got ready and tigged the tube back together, I went with low current and virtually melted or fused the tube together without much filler at all

I had the struts cut for the metal gland nut but it didn't centralise the insert so I did some cutting in the lathe but wasn't successful as I wanted..

So looking at my small pile of inserts I found a pair of alloy gland nuts but they were too small on the inner diameter do back to the lathe I enlarged the inner cup diameter, anyway I got a little carried away and cleaned them up to look better than new


After cleaning up threads on both parts there screw in nice and smooth

That's a mission of a mod right there, really cool to see this shake out and take shape. Jealous of the access to a lathe! 

Quick question Marty - do you use a foot pedal with your Tig and what electrodes do you use? I'm going to start practicing my tig over the next couple of months on scrap I've got here.

You guys have got me. If another project starts (that's a loaded statement) then I think I might bite the bullet too.
Though I will have to research, as I would want it primarily for alloy jobs

At the time I bought my Tig which cost nearly $1000 and is ACDC so can do Ally, SS etc , I couldn't afford one with a foot pedal, I can convert it but will be a on/off instead of progressive.
Electrodes are red or blue top mainly, there's not much between them. When practicing it's best to have a bunch on hand already sharpened up cause once you dip is walk if shame to the belt sander. The best tip is have electrodes at or less thickness than the metal your welding. Also those clear cups are great to see more in tricky spots.
Practice on different thicknesses and write down your settings so it's easier to go to later , tho it's usually 1amp for every thou, 0.040th =40amp etc as a base line and pure argon for gas, not argonshield

Mark A , I suggest to get the best you can which will do all metals cause you never know when you'll need to make it fix an ally sump or stainless zorst system..
The supplier I use is in Perth, Hampdon welding, they sell stuff as good as boc etc but easy less price.
I buy the filler rods (also at the metal thickness of less) from them by the kilo, metal, alloy, SS, also silicon bronze for mixing such metals .