Isnt an Avdel what you take for a headache? :)

Yeah mate yeah, similar I think, only take aspirin personally...

Spending a couple of days working on the front guard to 'square ' up the panel with a bit of filler here and there.



Where the cuts were to adjust the angles I put tape on the outside of the panel so when the fglass resin soaks thru it fills the gap so the panel is proper strong again, I did V the cut lightly so the filler had some good ground to bond with.
Then it was unbolted and primed and left in the sun for the Arvo.

Moving on to the drivers door which I knew was a bit "not right" with the gaps, well at the back it was so tight, I reckon a 0.007th Rolly paper wouldn't fit so it needed a bit of aggression to align it better. I did try to belt it with a clump hammer but no real effect to adjust them.
Ok so the door was way back, almost hitting the back panel and the front lower corner was sitting out about 3mm and needed to go in towards the body. The top hinge on the car was cut along it's length to the point I could hammer it forward easily but still strong which not only pushed it forwards but also out a little . The bottom hinge was cut off and at the pin holders and then chamfered to allow the weld to burn in good. So the bottom hinge allowed the door to sit in more but the door check rod also needed a hammer to let the door close without hitting. This is a pic of the top hinge after it was cut

Bottom hinge totally cut away and lined up in the new spot before welded


Bottom of the door all lined up and hinge welded back on

And the door gap is so much better along the rear panel edge


Such a long post but worth it!!

Marty, that's cheating without the guard being attached
 
Do you find when you fit new door seals its almost impossible to get the door to sit 'right'. Take the seal off the door opening and perfect. It just makes me wonder what they were like originally?
 
I had to drill out the hinge pins on the drivers door of the current MK2 project. They were falling apart when I attacked them with the Toledo pin removing tool.
I was worried that the new pins (Holden) would throw things out but actually pretty good.
 
On another note. I loaded it up on the car trailer on Saturday and thought I'll just hand crank it to TDC to make sure everything was as it should be. As it was booked into the tuner for Monday.
Well the water pump decided it had had enough and a few drips appeared on the trailer bed. Read here 'the pump is NOS'. I discovered now is not a good time exchange rate wise to get stuff from the UK. A 4x4 water pump just on $300. At least its located in Oz. Onwards and upwards.

Hey Mark, door seals are all the wrong size thickness, ie generic. I have on occasions bent the weld seam inwards to release the squish spring effect, this is usually around the kick panel and dash. Another thing to try is pinch more holes so it lets the air out when the door is slammed, a few knife cuts or pin holes on the back edge sometimes helps.
Bailey channel is another thing that's annoying as the front part at the triangle window should be thinner but hard to find, if the usual stuff is used the window doesn't slide as easy as it should.

I not know much about Cossy stuff but thought the water pump be same as old pinno, maybe pulley height?
3 hundy$ is big money's..

Another post, safest place for the guard is back on the car plus it helps keep the shape uniform

Then after lunch was a test fit for the driver side guard, trimmed the mounting seam so it fits nice next to the bonnet

Getting on with it, this side doesn't need any slicing as far as tell right now , it's pretty good .
It's set in this position with good old tek screws which will later be the pilot holes for the rivnuts mounting later on. The back of the guard is a little closer to the door but that's easy filed back once it's set in place. While there I installed the closing panel at the back of the guard, luckily this only needed slight pruning to have it position the guard level with the door, as I was happy with it's placing it got Sika'd into place but only lightly until I've removed the guard for a better check.

Looking good.

Giving me bad thoughts of dragging my mk1 out and redoing the front fonerglass guards... think I've got enough on my plate first though.

Shaun

which brings you back around to the start again.
That can only mean one thing, another coat of primer all round, quick sand, and crack out the topcoat!
 
The forum might go out with a bang.
It would be great to have the cars  back on their wheels and 'alive' before curtain call....

Back to the front again after 6yrs of grafting , once this guard is all straight and mounted to fit correct it'll be be primer putty and blocked as usual. Then it's a full flat back over the whole car to wiggle out any weird and missed bits then finally it's a topcoat in Area 51.

Mk1 has bonnet stops at the front on the bonnet slam panel tho MK2 has then on the above the headlights, in saying this I like clean mk1 look but since my bonnet is fglass and I'm not sure how thick I made it in that area so if I drill a hole and rivnut it, it might not have enough strength. Might just go without and move the side blocks forward more? I have always fitted MK2 side supports in mk1, they do require a little trimming on the insert mounting but work fine and are easier to find in good condition or new.
What I did to prep the bonnet pin supports is buy a pair of new Nissan patrol bonnet supports off eBay and lightly modify then add in the following pics.
These are the front supports for Nissan patrol

Finding longer screws of the same thread (M8)


Remove the rubber bush and simply swap it out


If I don't use them on this car, they will go on the MK2 van coming up next for resto.

Today I'll do more on the driver's front wing as I'm real keen now to get it in colour. I've also been searching for rubber seals, depending what I need which is everything, the place that's cheaper so far is Burton power UK at about $650 Inc shipping, Aus local is about $1100 and the door outer blades are not for escort, they are f100 cut back to suit so it's UK for the seal kit