Now back to the car project , as I mentioned in a previous episode I need to make exhaust hanger points , so this is what I came up with, it's a basic folded standoff with a measured rectangle cut into it..

Here is where where I'll be joining it to the floor, there's already a second skin strengthen to weld to

I did Tig this on thinking I'll be doing a good job, it looks a mess but seems solidly fixed

This is the rubber hanger bush clipped in place, the body goes in and turned a quarter to lock in place , removal is the same way. The hanger bushes are sourced from Ford Focus mk1, these are brand new .

And today I bent another up after work today to go on the other side, so it's future proof on whether I go Zetec, duratec, Honda k series etc, painted in the copper primer as usual..


This week I'll attempt to design and make the hanger which goes just before the diff ,see how we go...

Good thinking on the hanger options Marty. Especially as under the car they are not going to be visible.
You could always say its for when the V6/8 goes in
 
Further with the brake lines. I got the 3 braided lines made for the reservoirs to the master cylinders, hopefully there is a refund on left kidneys. I'm weighing up tapping the guy for advice (pros and cons of banjo v's JIC etc) and buying all the other bits I'll need from him. That's the main downside to buying online, you don't get the benefit of 'just bring it back and swap it'.
 
I'm definitely getting up to speed on inverted/double flairs (which is what I normally do) and bubble (DIN) flares. But this leads me to the question of; The inlet on the remote masters is 7/16"-20TPI and accepts an inverted flare. The outlet is 3/8"-24TPI and accepts a bubble flare. Why are they different flare types? And this is leading to my being unsure on the fittings to be used.
 
I found these guys are actually fairly well priced, but again you have to know exactly what fittings you require.
https://au.helperformance...ve-braided-brake-lines
Keep you posted.

The only reason I can think the threads are of different size and flare type is to stupid proof it, sort of like the master cylinder on cars, the back brake outlet is different to the front so dopeys can't get it wrong !

Yep on the money Marty
Had a chat with the brake guy yesterday. He said its an engineering thing.
But keeping that in mind he has seen inverted flares stuck in where DIN (bubble) fittings are supposed to go and vice versa. I suppose all it can do is leak!

Still on the zorst hangers, I reinstated the original middle hanger by removing the curly wurly rod. A slight bend of the tabs and relocation off to the side a bit it's all done. The rear most hanger will be made at a later date since it's a bolt on part, it can be done at the time of zorst fabrication.



Moving to the rear seat undercarriage supports, using some stainless steel 6mm rod to help take the load when someone sits on them. I created a bolt on bracket at the back and the rods at the front mount through a strengthened bracket attached to the seat bulkhead.

The stainless was magnetic so I could weld it with the regular MiG. I put a middle support to sit on some very heavy high density rubber sheet and welded a ski so it will spread the load, I might weld a sheet of panel to it to give more support, still engineering in progress..


Moving over to the front of the car , I noticed when I bought a Escort radiator it didn't fit in the home made RS rad notch which it was 5mm to skinny so it came in for mods with a grinder and air saw..

The Escort radiator slot got a good seeing to today. Instead of just widening the offending side, l cut it wider and done both sides to as wide as I can go.


While in there I removed the factory radiator supports to make a neater mounting solution.
There is plenty of rattle room there now to mount the Escort or Gemini radiator, both are about the same size, Gemini has bigger tanks but the water outlets are opposite as is the mounting plate on the Gemini one. I don't really want to modify the mounts on the radiator in case there's a problem down the track.


I'll update this post with pics of both radiators, they both have shrouds and thermo fans with all the wiring and sensors etc.
Had a spare temp cap so fitted it to the Escort one

good progress. Right s****y engine bay with the chrome radiator.
 
Looking at one of the seat pics, why on earth  didnt I think of welding in an earth clamp bolt months ago?
I'm stealing that idea (assuming thats what it is!).

Yeah the central earth in the magnet get to hot and destroys the magnet.
What you do is get one of these looking things
https://www.ebay.com.au/i...artemis&media=COPY
and then get a decent magnet like a 30-50kg force fishing magnet with the loop, some slight adjustments and it's great for years. 😎

You nick the radiator cap with temp gauge of your bbq?
Never seen one, what will they think of next?

I've decided to go with the Gemini radiator as it's slightly wider and has bigger tanks. Not sure why Gemini has 2x styles of radiator but the smaller one is a snug fit for Escort.
Last night I removed the side brackets and cleaned up the welds for when I make a new mounting

The brackets and fan shroud that was removed


Decided to mount ît using Honda isolator bushes, I've got 4x coming from AliExpress for $7.50, they should be here in a couple weeks.