the metal drop saw made easy work of trimming the Ali express bends down, better than an angle grinder could do.
 
By using the flexi joints, I found it leaves some tweakability in the joints until it's all squared up properly, as I learnt you can rotate the bend around (of course) to let the muffler align parallel with the floorpan for example.
 
Same with the loopy bit over the diff. I just eyeballed a couple of the bend angles, and made sure to cut them so that the cut remained circular. I have new respect for guys who do this for a living.
That or they have a pipe bender!
 
I should have 3D printed a cutting jig.
https://www.printables.com/model/1073313-51mm-pipe-bend-elbow-cutting-jig 
next time!
 

Right Deano you've given me the inspiration to have a go at doing an exhaust for the track car, as I'm up to that stage.
Few questions for anyone who may be able to shed some light.
1. Where is a good place to get stainless exhaust components online, V band flange, muffler, etc?
2. Pretty obvious, but I suppose I should get some stainless (0.8, 0.9?) wire for the mig. Is argon lite ok for SS?

1. We got ours from a exhaust shop in NSW, sells ss pipe by metre cuts , the 90 angles are chinee. V bands from eBay or Ali ( all comes from China anyways)

2. 0.6mm wire will be more weldable as the tube is 1.2mm wall .
Pure argon for stainless , some say CO2 can be used but stick with argon.

2.5, I was using 0.8 SS MIG wire as Tig filler rod on my Focus exhaust, much cheaper and worked fine when it was needed .

deano
 diff. I just eyeballed a couple of the bend angles, and made sure to cut them so that the cut remained circular. I have new respect for guys who do this for a living.
 

I thought exactly the same thing when doing mine.
 
A hoist and some stands to mock everything in place would definitely have helped me.  Felt like I always needed three hands.
 
Nice work.
 
Shaun

do it Mark!
MArty gave me links for the hotdog and main muffler, just from Alli. 
Honestly, they were so cheap!, and the bends too.
 
Cough cough, of course I just used the mig, with no gas, and same wire as i've done all of the welding, still on the same spool. So in short, do exactly nothing different.
Didnt even change the welder settings ( to be fair, I must have been welding something a little chunky previous).
It was hot enough, as I accidently blew through when my technique was a bit off, so that was good in a way. I checked the penetration from inside, its solid though, well looks it.
My tube was from a local guy i found on Gumtree actually, who sells exhaust bits on the side, it is "Redback" stuff, and it was a bit easier to get a 3metre length of 2.5" stainless from him than from online via the postie.
 
I bought a V welding tig welding clamp that holds 2.5", and has slots to weld through, and that made it a little easier to position. With good cuts, linished back a little before welding, and some patience, I'd absolutely do it again.
No need to take the car anywhere as well. I just wish i'd have had something to copy from, rather than just winging it. I have done no welding under the car to make it either, just position it, mark with texta, then set it on the bench and weld. It might die in the rse come the first bumpy road, but I'll just reweld it! :)
 
I'll post a finished pick once I can get to the local shop to get some hangers and finish off.
Plus I can soon run the engine cam in now, with an exhaust fitted.
 
 

As Deano said. If the pipe has some magnetic properties it can be welded with regular MIG but ideally if you've got a Tig use that.
Eyeballing it is the way to go as long as there's shake room without hitting anything. That's how I did my mk1 Focus and it's fine, same with the ute.

Deano, I tried to copy the zorst when doing the Focus, gave up and went my own way. Escort is a different story as there's any way to build one to do what you want.
3mtr of pipe, a bunch of 90s , a couple of V bands and a muffler or two plus time to connect the dots, do it Mark is good therapy

Thanks guys, just absorbing your comments.
 
I definitely want the system to be 'pull apartable' to some degree. So will need some expanded ends?
Also pondering a side exit if I can keep it quiet enough?
 
Marty, I don't pull the MIG out enough to warrant the foray in to TIG. That being said I've used half an E bottle of argoshield light this week. Been researching gas options and I think I'll try mine first before I go and buy a bottle of argon.
 
Probably easier if I draw the system up with a pic or two and post it here for comment and advice.
 
Would be good to see the type of clamp you used Deano. I've seen a few types in videos.
 
Mark
 
 
 
 

Found this..


https://a.aliexpress.com/_mrCuamJ

Or this..
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mLq6Rgr

The clamp could be modded to wrap have bigger pads so it locates the pipe more accurate

I just placed an order online from another mob.as I could not get around to the local shops.
Plus like Repco wants $18 for what you can buy $5 from these guys
 
Pricing seems ok on alot of the stuff, and black Friday sale is on
https://www.exhaustshop.com.au/ 
 
My tube was 2.5" (63mm) stainless, because MArty found htose bends cheaper (x6 stainless, about $50?)
I just used 1 x Vband at the end of the extractor, the main help is 2 of the flex couplings, as they give you the fudge factor when assembing, as they slip over the exhaust and pipe, so less butt joints too.
 
Have to wait a few days now to finish  off, lucky I have heaps of other jobs on the list.

Thanks to you both.
The first link Marty, the clamp on band is the one I was thinking. I have a couple of clamps like that shown in the second link so could mod to suit.
 
Exhaust shop online was the one a mechanic mate told me about so I will measure up and give them a buzz. With the long straight piece see what I can source locally (like you did Deano) cause otherwise it will hang out of my letterbox too far