Yes Marty it is. Which I imagine makes it easier to install than a steel bonnet.
Either way it is a measure twice cut once job!
 
I can't reinstate the old thread on the tarmac car build but currently learning everything about CAN bus with the Link Monsoon I'm wiring up. And I though BitCoin was hard to get my head around

thanks Mark. Yep, them's the ones. 
I bought them yonks ago, I think for the gold 4 door, but ended up making that one more original.
I've still got them unopend, and was just hoping Marty would do a 'how to' with pics.
 
It's tempting to start another job out of order and fit them now, we'll see how the long weekend goes.
There's a football match on apparently, but most people in Geelong dont care too much all of a sudden...
 
Canbus is 2 steps to far. I'm going to need motivation to get the Speeduino upgrade incorporated, as I'm sure it will mean going backward after i've spent all this time trying to progress.
Some of the digital dash layouts would be great to setup once you do have your head around the playing in that space.
 
MAybe start a new EFI thread so we can tag along?

Don't let it daunt you Deano.
Only thing I would say, when you look for places to fit the vertical pin make sure the part which attaches to the bonnet (the aero catch) is able to be placed without fouling on braces or seams etc.
The spot I wanted to put the pins was not going to allow the catch part to fit on a suitable part of the bonnet.
There are a couple of you tube vids floating around. As usual you have to be a bit judicious on their methods.
 
Football match. Yep its amazing when 2 out of towners (from Vic that is) play. Interest dwindles? Mind you it is the only game of the year I will generally watch cause it amazes me how grown men can squabble like children over a ball. Have I said too much
 
As for the ECU. I am learning all the time. I am glad I bought the Link Monsoon setup with loom from the UK. Brands Hatch Performance have been great with answering my (dopey) questions and one of their guys (who actually programs the supplied base map etc) contacted me the other day over whats-app call, to run me through some start up issues. Seems 36-1 crank pulleys throw the ecu into a tizz.
Also the Link forum is excellent.
I'm actually enjoying sitting on the laptop, pretending like I know what I'm doing.

After a good look, I'd dont have an original Escort fuse block afterall, so the wiring went back in the box for now.
Interest was waining of the football Mark, the telly was on in the shed, just for background noise.
Funny that the 36-1 crank pulley made it chuck a wobbly, that seems the std go to for many Ford or 4cyl installs.
 
And soory to anyone who herad me swearing on Staurday PM. I mixed up 2 pack topcoat for the roof, and was hoping  300ml would do it, without running out and have to cook another batch 1/2 way through.

By 3/4 of the way, I was going to win...
Until the roller tray slid down the front roof slope, I went to catch it, and then lost the tray, plus the roller, and the paint brush, all arcing wildly through the air, flinging the last 50ml  all about the place.
 
Somehow when I picked the tray up, it still had paint clinging upside down, so I picked off the larger bits of garage floor junk off the roller, and kept going with what was left. My mental state was not conducive then for quality workmanship, especially when some grass below in and joined the party. It was all going to need another sand anyhow.
But it proved that the roller and tip paint job would come out ok. It had been dry sanded with 120, then 320, then topcoated. The undercoat felt so smooth I wondered if it was actually too smooth to key properly.
Within about 30 minutes, it was levelling out, and the next morning i kept wanting to feel it.
Its hard to show how shiny it turned out. The lessons learnt are I need to also wear a dustsuit, and probably rig up a dropsheet over the job somehow, to minimise the blowin dust. I'm happy with the thinning, tipping brush and roller application.
 
 

That bonnet dent is now sorted too.
1 selectively placed access hole from underneath avoided the need for any welding at all to the bonnet surface. 

I was able to use a stainless bar to tap from underneath, and raise up most of the low spots.
Low spots always have highs nearby, queue scary face:

 
Enough that a coat of filler, actually 2 coats, could level things out.

then the rest of the bonnet got a sand, and since I was covered in dust, the drivers side is again getting the next phase of sanding.
I forget to take photos as the phone gets plugged into the stereo for Spotify duty.
No bonnet latches but, all in all, a productive weekend and nice to see a little progress.

Nice work on the bonnet, and that roof looks so smooth too 👍

Agree with Marty there Deano. Scary face and all!
Occasionally when spraying you get a blockage or similar (last spray job the hose on the HVLP decided to crap itself), an Oh S*&t moment. Just got to let it dry and figure out best way to move forward.
I used to have a zip wall and extractor fan when I was spraying 2 pack in houses. Works really well and worth the time setting up something to keep the bad stuff out as much as possible.
 

another month between updates.
When I first started on the van, I made folders to put each weekends progress photos in.
Its now up to folder 57, and it wasnt even every weekend that somethign was done either.
Anyhow, in no particular order:
the door got a rubdown and I toyed with some gapping on the front edge, then gave the side another epoxy primer/surfacer

it was a little warm in the shed, so the thickness was a bit on the high side but it will give me more to flatten down with

the bonnet repair looked ok, but close up some seemed to sink into the filled area, so it needs another coat at least

 
 

The above painted areas took exactly 400ml of 2 pack, and that was stretching it out towards the end as I think the brushing thinners were dissappearing on me towards the start. Its seeing more areas of the van get to the same stage.
Just the rear doors, underneath of the bonnet and a few spots on the sills to sand and tidy for undercoat, then some serious sanding. Next I think I need to find some form of stop putty that would be ok under the polyurethane topcoat.
 
I now have full accelerator travel with the standard pedals and the enlarged wheel dishes, by cutting and reshaping a relief area under the pedal. It looks messy in the photo, but should cleanup ok once seamsealed and repainted again.
The best part was that the interior sound deadening bitumen sheets didnt catch alight when welding, so that was an added bonus. 

I have the engine back after getting the head doen, and have fitted the bits back on.
The clutch thow out bearing is one of those with a plastic carrier (lhs)  rather than the original steel housing and retaining clip. The fitment seemed alot sloppier on the gearbox shaft, and I thought it was not correct.
Yesterford and the Exedy supplier both say thats how they are with this style, so we'll have to see I guess.

 
 
 

Didn't want to post a new thread.
Not sure if you guys have seen what just popped up
 
https://www.my105.com/search/details/1976-ford-escort-mk2-rs2000-number-11-of-25/48365e89-aadf-4a69-acbb-a3a3eeadf18e?source=SEARCH_RESULT
 
One of Colin Bonds old rally Escorts is still for sale too
https://www.my105.com/search/details/ford-escort-mk2-ex-works-bdg/34db7c05-d1e4-43a3-a64b-7cdaf98599e9