some more work done on the passenger A pillar, and little jobs tidying up the sill and inner rear arch tub.
The panel order from SMCKA included these larger front wheel tubs.
They are identical stampings, sold as a pair. I expected them to be handed as the original shape is not symmetrical.
It sort of looks like one size fits none? Without having any return lip or flange, i'm guessing your expected to just fabricate one as/where needed? 
As the current thinking is to use 15x7's, with around 215/50 front and 225 on the rear. I'm reluctant to chop up 1/2 of my good work to fit these, or will it be a definite have to given proposed tyre size.? or would it be better to go with 205F and 215R, and adjust the offset? Still looking for deep dish look to fill the arches.
Will add the subframe stiffeners just because. 
 
A new front panel is still on backorder, so if the forecast remains lousy over the weekend, it might be time to hack off the other 2 guards to keep Marty rolling along.

couple more pics
If your wondering about the lazy billy for the rotisserie, I find its easier to change the height by this than the deadbolt lock arrangement i'd made. Next version will have cordless drill powered
 
 
 
 

 

I'm guessing with the woks being all the same, have you sat them inside the car as this is where they will be once the old part is removed, they look very ' make it fit as you go' kind of piece. I think you'll work it out.
Should've asked me, I would've made the gussets for you, mine are bigger and have more weld area with the return tabs . Make sure you weld the door pillar cover in lots of places to stop it flexing, even fit an internal brace if needed.. great progress tho😎

Edit.. if you have spare bike cogs and chain about you could devise a reduction gear and pedal the car over... But will still need a disk rotor and E brake but...

At least the ID plates didn't rust

ive got a few Tuffs hanging about with a spinback, but not sure if that'd work. ;)
Shrinker ordered!
True about the id plates Mark.
Should have made more of the van out of ally, just like the old Landy.
 
Pity the subframe was steel though.

You'll need to weld the ratchet so it's a fixie directy onto the rotisserie without the tuff.. I've never bothered as the balance is usually good on my rotisserie .
Excellent you've got the shrinky coming, the seller must be wondering why he sold 2x within an hr lol, just need Mark to buy one and we get commission hehe
My cousin had a Landy 110 td , when he broke up with his misso he went back to the UK and took the Landy with him ! He sold it while there and made a king profit, now he's come back to aus hunting for another one

Marty, Ive stopped at the bead roller (so far). Oh, and the shears. Your a bad influence!
I would be interested to see the shrinker at work, should be some stuff on YT.
As for the Landy, like everything now they have gone a bit nutso price wise.

Sorry Mark ‼️ hehe.
I seen a yt vid where some Giza had a C shape and did a bead roll, then another bead roll, some shrinking, by now it was a coil spring, then he bead roll again, more shrink and right there he made a flared arch for a drift car thing... Impressed me !

I chopped out the passenger upper floor today, and the shape for the wok as Marty calls it.
This looks like it'd go in ok, suprisingly.
Question though.
The upper floor pan has a dogleg rib pressed in (sorry should have taken a snap) which would be good to replicate.
Its about 1.5 inches wide, and maybe 6"from memory.
Is it possible (or worth)  trying to make a timber matching form to press between, in the vice? or do you just belt the bejesus out of it with a ballpein (I dont have a press as such) and try to dress it afterwards?
One of the threads had these stampings done at home by someone much smarter than I.
 
Dads Landrover was great, series2 short wheel base, with holden engines 283? was the last one.
Oh, and a rover 90 diff for a few extra on the hwy.

I know of that dogleg pressed rib your talking of .. If you can't make as replica, try to smooth out away where your new panel starts, if done tidily no one will know any different.
Had a thought, if you can make a cad template of the wok, which means trimming and taping to get the curve you can sacrifice that instead of the panel, then transfer the shape to the metal. From what I reckon on installing it/them is the tunnel side stays as the original one but the outer edge swings inwards removing a bit of the side kick panel which will give the clearance for bigger tyres, am I in the right track ?