Hehe, the gas for the welder is inert, non combustible, if you want the non rent bottles can be bought from Bunnings but will need the std wire and regulator.. Maybe next time your wire runs out give it a go..

Speaking of the weather, it was meant to be a bad one here in Adel, but it went below the city it's still in the hills from what I can see here. Meant to get rain for the next few days here but the weather man has not been right for years !!! When you see magpies sandbagging their nests you know it'll be torrential..

I found my big boy pants (Behind the 'Ultimate Kylie" greatest hits CD box set), and grabbed the grinder and just ripped into it.
Actually after a lot more thinking, I decided the best way was to insert the bubble arch behind the current rear skin, then spotweld through.
It was much fiddlier, but meant the mounting face flange would definitely fair in better: something to do with trying to fit 3rd party repro pressings designed for a coupe onto a 44 year old van. I just could not get the fit good enough to ensure you were not going to see the arches did not look like they were simply welded ontop. Now any deviation is hidden behind the front panel. Plus, it means I can work on both sides to hammer the welds out
The van wheelarch tubs have a bracket that mounts to the ring frame going up under the roof. This of course is ending up 3/4 of the way into the new tub, so will need cutting or modify to bring it to the new outer edge.
Currently doing that now, and making cardboard patterns for the inners, then will get welding agin.
Marty, sorry about the chopout where the brace is, but if the arch wedge is still of use, it yours.
Glad daylight savings is here. 
Happy snaps:
 

she's got hips.

Wow that looks great Deano. Yep, not being an expert on bubbles I reckon fitting the arch in between the two skins makes good sense.
 
Only one word of advice from the sidelines is to make sure there is no movement between any panels in areas you propose using body filler. But sounds like your going to stitch it all the way around so all good.
 
BTW what is a good product for seam sealing prior to painting?
I'll start a new thread on the track car soon it will all make sense.

Hey Deano good progress there, the van actually looks good bubbled up 👍. I'll see what I can salvage from your arch(s) , I know 1 side is not too bad but the other needs a complete arch.

Mark, as for seam sealer/drip check , I use sikaflex 227 , designed for auto panel sealing and has strong joint adhesion. eBay seller in Darwin has 3x tubes for about $55 , cheap considering Bunnings sell 1 for 28 bux
https://www.ebay.com.au/i...rid=705-154756-20017-0

I think you are right Mark about any flex possibly cracking the filler line. I was hoping 2 rows of spot tacks spaced apart (plus some edge seam tacks) would help.
One thing I did find though, when the Express bubble panel was stamped, the arch shape still remains more as a flange:you need to trim it back and dress it into the conventional arch shape with a lip.
I'd marked it all out on the car ready to cut, then decided to do the dressing, but in turning the edge in, it also pulled both sides of the wheel lip in closer, ending up with a 'tighter' wheel radius.
Luckily it wasnt all cut before this stage.
 
Good question on the seam sealer:I have some bought from the local paint supplier when I grabbed filler and etch prime, some german brand and about $30+ from memory.
 
Great link Marty about using Sika, many thanks.
I reckon the Darwin Ebay guy is going to find his sales suddenly spike up, and not know why. :) 
With all my patches, I' think I'll need abox of the stuff.
I saw somewhere the go is to mask up each side of the seam, spread it out then pull the tape off leaves it neat?
 
Also what color is that Blue you did the van in Marty?
 

For some reason the black sika seems to go everywhere but the white one is ok, less mess !
You could've joggled the part where you're welding to the car to give a flush seam joint, but...I have a air joggler and things start to move out of shape... Not recommended in a swervy panel

The van is painted in Ford Performance Blue, as the Focus st/xr5 and RS, fiesta ST etc. One of Fords colors only to go on sports models

I just order 3 tubes from our Darwin mate, hopefully that gets me at least 1/2 way.
They have some good gear actually, including tapes. I was thinking of maybe flush mounting the rear perspex door windows with VHB tape and Silka.
 
Marty I tried my handheld joggler a few times, but it only makes a short flange, 10mm maybe? so its not as universal as I hoped.
It looks like there is a new Ford Performance Blue out in the Mustangs. I like blue, but have the Capri and my wifes car coming in blue, I think I need another color to wash.
 
Any thoughts on how useful these might be for spotwelding? I didnt know they existed with copper face just for this exact thing.My current wide clamps are just a bit too short to reach enough over the bubbles.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/252106078180?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-139619-5960-0&mkcid=2&itemid=252106078180&targetid=1280421173959&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9071205&poi=&campaignid=10101784952&mkgroupid=124139257673&rlsatarget=pla-1280421173959&abcId=9300367&merchantid=115585497&gclid=CjwKCAjwkvWKBhB4EiwA-GHjFlY5wBqDuWjVELwl7t2hoeWepwbI_xbhaYORQmHmtPxHz60pieGP_RoCYcYQAvD_BwE 

what would be good is a wide, long arm version, with the copper heat sink, and spaced top jaw bit so you can weld in between the jaws.

Deano, They are are a great idea but just given me the thought of making a magnetic copper faced backing plate which can be placed anywhere. I find with all these 'plier' type devices there is always a spot (or ten) that you can't fit them on cause of curves, not large enough gape etc...
 
Let me know how you get on with the perspex windows. I have a full set for the Escort (though it will be while till I'm ready for that stage of the build) so interested in alternative ways to fit them.

Deano, what fuel tank are you using in the van, keeping it stock or going custom ?
As for my blue van, I sold the tank during the resto cause I had the plan to run it on LPG only, but ... Finding a gas tank that'll fit in the space under the tray behind the axle got frusto so gave up that plan, now(9yrs on) I'm thinking about using one of those alloy $140 race type tanks with sender and EFI pump all in one , just need to know the dimensions it'll fit in , I can make bkts to suit etc , just don't want to chop the car in any way ..