This is the undercarriage of my blue van before it was reassembled. It's the only pic I've got with the rear shock mounts, hardly see them !

Deano, it doesn't matter where you chop the inner arches at, I found a set of mk2 arch cuts I kept for some odd reason, the guy wanted tarmacs installed and I thort the stock arches will come in handy as they are rot free .

Hi Marty, I started cutting one out this afternoon actually.
After 3 days of further lockdown, I got the passenger floor mostly done, inner and outter sill, and the arch was next.
It takes so long , well it take me so long. As well as the spot welds, I did run some stitches along the edges of the  floor rails. Seam sealer will cover all of it anyhow.
 
After I started cutting though the outer skin, I wimped out, and thought the van needed more stiffening before cutting the inner tub, which was the only thick bit of metal. No wonder escort weigh nothing, the steel is so thin. At least I've learnt that its virtually impossible to butt weld any original panel skin, it's simply too thin. Overlapping panels and spot welding only.
So one step forward, 2 back.
 
No photos, as I wasnt happy with this weeks work.
 

Toughen up young man lol , the panel will be wobbly until you got the bubble and the filler to connect it back up. Don't panic over it as the panel usually rests where it's meant to anyway...and your installing bubbles which will cover a vast amount of panel to hide imperfections..
Keep up the good work👍

Help needed please.. (yes again Fellas)
I've overthought how best to put the rear bubbles on, and watched a few youtubes again, and even reread my own thread and keep doing circles.
 
So, in short:do I tack the bubbles ontop of existing panel, or under it?
It sounds simple, but there are advantages/disadvantages to each, and it effects what happens where the existing panel skin meets the wheel tub.
 
The front guard was easy, the rear is doing my head in a little due to the inner skin.
 
If you used alloy arches, you pop rivet over the top, and the existing skin goes down to the tub and gets trimmed flush:in inner extension. Apparently rally boys like this as when the arch is thumped, you dont damaged your inner tub and shock mounts.
If you spotweld mount the bubble underneath the existing skin, you automatically have cut away the existing panel right up to the mount flange for the bubble, and extend the wheel tub out, as described in previous posts. So from inside the van, you'd be seeing into the larger tubbed bubble.
Gartrac vids show double rows of spotwelds, with the bubble behind the existing bodyskin. This lets you fair in easier I think, but once you cut up so high, you are committed to this method.
 
Pics would have helped, but I think you all may familiar enough.
I'll post some once its cut, following the group response.
And for prosperity.
 
Thanks again, and again.
 

I would weld them on top of the existing panel , and since it's going to become the new outer skin I would cut the old skin about 15mm below the weld line and lightly form it to match the new arch , add sealer etc to stop rusting then do the infill as usual .
I've only install fglass flares but steel is very similar.
Do you still have my number? Can call this eve or send a PM if you get stuck..

thanks Marty.
I'll put my big boy pants on and just toughen up and do it.
I do have your number still, but wont get into it until the weekend again. Thanks for the offer though.
 
I've just about burned through my first roll of Mig wire (woo-hoo!) and went to the welding shop.
They game me some pointers on the machine setup again (looks like I need lower voltage 16v drop to 14, but more wirespeed). More likely to be my lack of technique also. I get a new switchable welding magnet to have a play with like below. We are meant to get smashed with rain this weekend, which will be good for shed time.
 
 

Yep Deano those magnets are great. I have been using them for a while now. The only time I switch over to a clamp is on a Stainless job or really small things where the magnet is too cumbersome.
On your settings, distance from electrode to weld etc etc, just practice on some spare pieces trying to replicate the welding position of the actual job and see how it looks and more importantly if your getting decent penetration.
You did end up changing over to argoshield?
 

Hope you didn't get inner shield wire, that stuff does not work nice on thin metal. It was made for thick stuff mostly.
Argoshield is the way to go and use 0.6mm wire, 0.8mm gives of more heat and distorts metal.
Practice until the the weld sounds like fast cooking bacon , but don't do more than 5mm at any 1 time, spot weld and let things cool down... Patience is the key

ha, yes of course I got flux core again. That's all i've used from day 1, when it works, its magic, and so far its been ok, albeit with more splatter, and poorer looking welds. As soon as the metal has some thickness, my skill level lets it join, just like a hot glue gun.
 
I really don't want to use gas. I dont have it in my boat either, despite it coming with an new unused gas cooker
There's nothing worse than when someone doesnt take your advice, so apologies to you both.
Given thats the case, i'll stop winging.
 
The bacon splatter sizzle temp is getting close to sounding ok, and I even got some wicked amounts of smell coming off once things started cooking along with the floorpans. I didn't notice until my daughter came in and nearly choked.
Might need a decent mask.
Migomag said that 0.8 flux behaved like 0.6, which would make sense allowing for the core infill of shielding gunge. 
Its addictive, just frustrating as well.