Continuing on... While interior stuff going on the piece de resistance is going on - the engine. My brother has been building small ford race engines for years so I got his years of experience in the hand built engine in mine. The block carries a 40 thou overbore with a standard bottom end, everything put together with tight tolerances. The magic is in the head - cc'd and standardized the chambers to work out the skim for a 10:1 compression, a full port job with the emphasis on good gas speed as we retained the larger size standard valves as it is a street engine with a mid range cam ( Camtech 236 ) with dual valve springs and carefully specced geometry. The icing on the cake is the drive pulleys - a full set of custom alloy pulleys. He paid a proprietry licence fee for the production of custom re-profiled wider pulleys and a heavy duty belt. A set of these run a roller Pinto spinning at 8500. Crank pulley is an undersized Esslinger alloy unit to underdrive the water pump so it doesn't cavitate at revs. Top pulley is a vernier type. Carbs are twin 45's with air enclosure and cold air feed from nose cone. Should be about 140-150HP at a guess. Pokes along nicely with T9 and 4.11:1 LSD.......

Hi NQRS
do you have more photos of the focus rear disc conversion?
Beautiful RS by the way
Cheers

Hi Ross,
I will have to make up some pics for you. Didn't take many during the installation. Got my brother to take the measurements of calipers etc and got his mate to make a CAD drawing of the caliper mounts. The boily at work plasma cut them for me out of 10mm plate and also some spacers. To some people probably over engineered these as the main body also acts as the bearing retainer for the axles, meaning they replace the light pressed tin one. Once I had the plate set in the place I wanted it marked the axle flanges and drilled out so plate was bolted into the original position. Made sure I got the hubs off the focus as well as I needed the longer studs to mount the discs. PCD is identical to Escort so fit straight on to axle flange. Because of the way the handbrake levers on the calipers are facing I had to use the twin handbrake cable system which I bought with all the gear from the wreckers. I had calipers refurbished which my brake specialist said was a must. I got another brake place to shorten the cables and refit the nipples so I could use the original retainer and made up a small bracket to connect to the original handbrake lever. The cables run down each side of the trans tunnel, held in place by saddle  clamps. Should be under the car on another job in a few days so will have camera handy and get a couple of shots.
 Cheers,Len

Hi Ross,
Here is a picture of the mounting plate CAD drawing I used. The hole in the bottom was drilled for the axle and a recess machined in the inside to allow for the seating of the bearing so the plate sat flush with the end of the axle housing.
Len

Hi All,
Have had to revisit my rear brakes as the discs are glazed and the pads have been contaminated with a little oil- minor axle seal leak. Fixed that and got the discs skimmed.  Ross157- here are some more pics of the focus rear disc conversion. Discs are 250mm and the correct PCD- no drilling required and the centre fits straight on to the axle spigot. The boomerang shaped spacer is 3mm steel and has a washer to pack so the caliper is nicely centred on the disc.  I used the longer studs off the focus hubs to give the length I needed to mount the discs. 
 Will have to get back under again and fix mountings for outer handbrake cables- only used half saddles which have allowed them to move about and reduce the tension for the handbrake. Will pad them out a bit with rubber and pop rivet full saddle clamps to keep them inn place. Also took the opportunity to adjust the clutch. I also had my rear springs reset to standard height. They were lowered ones but with the offset on my wheels found they were scrubbing on short bumps as the shockies had little travel.   Spax rear shocks adjusted down to medium and car not banging about in the rear. Next project is gas struts for bonnet....

Hi Folks ,
have finally made some progress in fixing up some things which have been bugging me for a while. When I fitted the second heater box during my rebuild I knew the fan speed resister was not good, tried my best but it broke the contacts. Opted to use an after market one which came with wiring. Local sparky works on old cars so he was able to get the wiring sorted. Cut a hole in the air box, only had to drop the switch panel to get to it. Resister doesn't have to be fitted in the original location, got it  fitted and wired up according to diagram. Hooray- have got 2 speed fan again. Not usually a problem except when hot but can demist windscreen during rainy weather. Also meant that I could refit my glove box and new heater control surround. Have always found the straight metal dash a bit stark so have fitted a facia panel with a padded insert (don't know what trim level it belongs to? ) and an RS badge in the same style as the exterior ones. For some unknown reason the speedo started to work again-  must have worked its way bay back to the right spot so was able to refit the D/S under dash tray. Rebuilt out of new board using the old stuffed one as a template- transferred over fittings, trimmed in carpet and looking  a lot better. If the speedo drops out again it will be an electronic replacement.

Another job done was getting my chrome gutter strips fitted. These are chrome plastic ones and came in a coil. Required gentle heat and a lot of patience to straighten out the roll then more of the same to get the curves moulded to fit to the gutters. The mouldings are not a snug fit on the gutter so had to sikaflex them in place. Came out reasonable and helps break up the overall white of the car and matches the chrome door handles. Also some interior shots after fitting my door trims. I was lucky in that seats had been retrimmed and required no work. Done in black cloth but don't know if its genuine beta cloth.  Think my scheels came from an ESP falcon as I got some mountings made up to fit the genuine seat rails to the bottom. These are RS spacers which give me a good viewing driving height as I'm a shorty!

Also some pics of my boot install. Small amp drives some 6x9's in the rear parcel shelf, put a bit of sound proofing material under the parcel shelf and made up an upholstered board for the rear of the boot to provide a barrier between cab and boot as well as mounting point. Other item is the CD stacker controlled by the head unit in the cab- old school stuff- also has a cassette player , so can play a lot of my old music!!  Flat floored the D/S well and solid mounted  the battery box to it for rego purposes. Have got it wired to a cutout switch so I can immobilize the car if parked somewhere for a while.

G'day Len,
The parcel tray looks good, hard to find a nice straight one I think the bulkheads leaked water on them from new haha.
My heater resister was looking a bit suspect when I put it together, I'll be in touch if I have the same drama....
Cheers Drew.... 

 
Hi Drew,
Do you subscribe to the Classic Ford magazine? They featured in their new stuff section a fan speed resistor for a Capri, a couple of issues back,  looks to be the same sort as the Escort ones- price a bit steep at 45 pound. Mine cost about $35. Will see if I can get the details.
Len