2009/10/09 20:09:51
Luke
Nice work
2009/10/09 20:23:16
mud
lol, good on ya for having a go yourself Tex.

Will enjoy watching your progress.
2009/12/09 15:49:46
anglia4
Choice thread, good to see someone passing on all their solutions
2009/09/13 16:19:37
TEX
a bit more progress over the weekend, no wife or kids, yay, I mean I miss them.
Engine mounts fit ok on the st170 block although only using three bolts...





started mucking with the flywheel and clutch .
three clutches, std 1.8 focus (small spline) std 2ltr escort and my 4 puck. the 1.8 is about 3mm bigger in diameter than the pinto.



forget the st170 set up I am using the 1.8 focus blactop flywheel, modified like this, ring gear moved backwards by 14mm,( I hear 13mm works to) also got it redrilled to suit my old pinto pressure plate and got the dowels reset. All balanced ready to go on.



a small plug for one of my sponsors, good oil, and local.



Heres the ignition trigger setup on the inside of the flywheel,

Also checked the pickup was the same on the ST and the 1.8, Yes they are.


To keep those engines under control I have a trolley to move and store em, I support them like this, While I'm Sharing an all.
A tek screw does the job.


Started to strip the ST donk,
This little unpleasant individual was stuck on there good and proper,

Finally got it off.


then the oil pick up, and alloy sump bit.


A few differences, oil squirters under the pistons,


the rods dont look much beefier than the 1.8 but the fit and finish is out of sight. It was almost impossible to see the join where the caps meet the rods. Seriously. The bolts look substantial compared to the 1.8
ST rod, bolts, etc


1.8




The sump needs some extra holes to fully support, this is how I went about doing it.
First I mounted the Steel support bars provided with the Sump onto the block and used the Holes as guides for the 5mm holes needed for the M6 bolts I intend to use.


Do both ends while your at it and try your best to centrally locate the steel plate.





Then remove the steel plate and tap out the holes, For those who haven't used a tap before, its really easy on alloy and just remember to for every full turn in back it out half a turn to keep your thread true, straight and well formed.
The front is only about 4mm thick but I dont intend to overtighten the bolts, the back wont be a problem, lots of thread there, you could almost get away with a nut and bolt on the front, but its not the way I wanted to do it.



As you can see I got the block on its side on the bench, Make sure you tape up around where youre drilling and tapping to avoid metal in your engine.





2009/09/13 18:07:16
Paul Dunstan
Geez - how lucky are you getting a weekend of day release

I believe all the 2.0L Zetecs have the piston cooling pipes. My 1996 Mondy Silvertop has them.

Can you post a pic of the Retro Ford sump and pickup please as I'm curious how it is run to gain clearance over the steering rack etc.

Keep the pics coming!
2009/09/13 18:21:21
Phil
Is there any way you can use the sump girdle? The alloy section? AS these increase block strength quite dramaticly[%]
2009/09/13 18:35:43
TEX
Girdle Eh? Yeah, I know it adds strength and I am reluctant to turf it, but having spoken to a few engineers about it they reckon it would be mega difficult to weld (oil in the pores of the cast alloy)and probably be pourous after wards. That said I might try a few more 'specialists' to see what they reckon. I could use the retro ford sump as a template!
I'll get it cleaned at the engine shop, we'll see what happens, If it works out I may make two, Any one keen? No promises but.
2009/09/13 19:11:46
Phil
Boil it in a big pot[;^)]
2009/09/13 19:54:20
BootOn
Hey Tex

Could you post some photo's of your block with the pick-up attached I'm having a few dramas with mine from RF. 10/10 for the progress pics. Very helpful.

Cheers
2009/09/13 20:54:47
Mickas
BootOn what issues are you having?
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