I'm gunna try an find the time to document the conversion and let you all know the drama's I have so you can save your self some time and hassle. The plan is to install the st170 motor into my early Mk2 escort, Will use off the shelf parts sourced from the UK. As I dont have the time or patience to make the stuff my self.
Recently picked up a ST170 motor for reasonable money. I have a fabricated intake manifold I got of feebay to mount my twin 45 dellortos to. Purchased the Retro ford m/sport sump, Raceline water rail, retro ford engine mounts, Ashley exhaust manifold already. I found it easier to get it all through burtons. The service was good although I did have to pay some taxes when it got here. Cost about $2300 landed, which is reasonable and when the dollar was not so great.
So first I started prepping the engine by stripping all the gear I dont need.
Check out the waisted valves

Some general pics


oil cooler BONUS!

Hayabusa Quads on the st manifold, need some spacing, but not for now.



Might have to move the breather, not sure yet.

Only three engine mount hole opposed to blacktops got four. Didn't know they were different, hope the mounts fit!

What the hell type of fly wheel is that?

Crazy, looks like same PCV valve and the 2ltr Spigot bearing will fit perfect in the crank. Hooray!

Not sure about this VCT yet, keep it or chuck it, will wait and see when its in an running.

That flywheel is a Dual Mass Flywheel...common in late model manual cars

sweet! ill be watching this topic..

yeah, i first heard of those flywheels in landrovers, for smoother start offs im pretty sure.

Yeh I thought the Black Top block and ST170 blocks were the same???

Dual Mass Flywheel designed to take the stress out of drivelines but in turn made a manual VT commodore more of a noisy shyt tin...

The poms love the ST170 VCT... they recon its worth it... test and tune i say

All the luck to ya we'll all be watching

A bit more progress, still stripping the engine andprepping for the install, removing things I dont want or need,
Timing belt cover coming off, had to remove the water pump pulley.




Will need two bolts to go back in to hold the water pump on, need to be shorter.



Took the manifolds off, its getting pretty slim now, its no a big motor at all. Found this odd thing on the side of the block too, not sure what it does, likely dont need it.






Zorst looks a bit coked up, I hope the engines ok, Im sure I can blast it out with some high rpm:)



Well fark me, that looks alot like a std 2ltr spigot in there. Gee I love fords.


Pulled the old dipstick out, easy fix to blank the hole.




Bash it in with some sealant, job done.


VCT solenoid thing,


Couldnt help my self, with the manifold off and some quads lying around.

pretty sure the thing on the side of the block is the knock sensor.

Just to confirm it is a knock sensor...

Was that a core/welch plug you bashed in to blank the dipstick? If so mind if i ask what diameter (The vern is a bit tricky to read in the photo) and where it came from? Likewise the spigot bearing?

Its a brass welsh plug 0.539" to the closest thousand of an inch. The spigot has not been replaced and was standard fitment on the st170 engine I have. The 1.8 you have will require a standard 2ltr escort spigot bearing, it will fit.

A bit of progress on how I have done the Alternator and aux drive belt. I had to raid some spares but I'll talk you through it.
Firstly theres an idler pulley/tensioner assy common on the focus range.looks like this.



This will fit your standard escort alternator like so. I used this spacer behind the 'fan' on a spare alternator.


and put it on like this

then mounted the pulley with the washer and the original alternator nut like this , just be careful to centralise the washer before you tighten the nut. It grips pretty tight and should be fine in service.



Also had a crack at mounting the alterator using a bracket I fabricated





heres a trial fit.
I suppose you could buy one, but this was made out of scrap metal in few hours.







Next was the idler for the water pump, you should have this bracket.


and this idler pulley.


My solution starts like this. Hack that bracket to look like this.


then strip the idler and make a pulley


you will need an extra washer to space the pulley out like this.


I got some scrap angle iron and started on a bracket to mount of the alloy one I cut up earlier


lines are a bit wonky due to beer, rushing and care factor, I just want it running. drilled another hole to mount the idler pulley i made before now it looks like this.




All the while making the above. looking and using my calibrated eyeball to align the belts, maybe a ruler or two also.





Even had time to find a belt and try it on for size, (it took a few trips to the local) I am blessed with great local spares shop and a guy who understands, I often 'shop' for parts when I dont know the model length or type. 3 swapped belts later we are in business.



Alignment by calibrated eyeball.


Stay tuned for sump and engine mount action.