how to do bodywork patches the easy way

Hi Fellas,
 
Is this how you guys do replacement patches in bodyworK?
 
I found this guy Fitzy online, and he makes it look so logical and easy, with less chance of warping panels.
Rather than cutting out the and then trying to make a corresponding size insert patch, he does a rough cut, tacks the larger repair panel over the top, then recuts through both, retacking as you go.
It seems part of the trick is to do the cut angled slightly, which further helps to make for a tight and uniform weld gap.
 
Anyhow, if you watch the vid you'll see what I mean.
No need for cleko's anymore?
 
I wish I'd seen this years ago.
Any other tips to share around?
 
 
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_u31t13QO6A

Absolute bobby dazzler deano  ............   they never showed us that and Dandy TAFE !
I can see limitless apps for doors, guards, bonnets and bootlids with all their intricate shapes..........and then some.
 
100/100 !

oxy and a plenishing hammer for panels
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fkNtUjxSf7Q
 

I was taught basic oxy at night school, but for me I have picked up mig easier with thin panels.
Just like hot glue gun for metal, and i'm getting addicted.
Any excuse for 'just welding something up'.
 
The only thing I miss with not having an oxy, is being able to do heat shrinks.
Does anyone use the stainless shrinking disks? I think I could do way more damage with one of those.
 

Yep have to agree, very smart. Unfortunately not many of these jobs are on flat panels

If your filling the massive window holes in panelvans it could work well

............. very true ! almost can work anywhere you have access to other side,
 

Thanks for the link deano, always good to see other peoples ideas.
 

deano
Does anyone use the stainless shrinking disks? I think I could do way more damage with one of those.
 

I have a shrinking disk, man it is effective and really helpful for removing a high spot from a fairly flat surface like  a door skin or boot panel. Just go easy when using it at first time till you get the feel of how much shrinks at a time. I use mine on a variable speed buffer/grinder so I can control the speed.

Blue, Was watching a video on using a shrinking disk. After the guy had run the disk over the area being worked on he was spraying on a solution. Any idea what it is?

Yes, he was probably spraying on water, I use compressed air to cool the area though to pull the metal in and seems to work ok.

Seems to be an updated version of quenching- spot heating with an oxy then quenching with a soaked rag to shrink the metal- had to do that with the full length of the rear quarter  of the RS to get the body line back again. The  skin looked like it had cellulite and had been covered by a huge sheet of bog instead of being panel beaten.

Deano said:
"The only thing I miss with not having an oxy, is being able to do heat shrinks."
No need for an oxy to heat shrink.
Try a hand held disposable propane burner available from most hardware stores. The kits have a heating tip included.
I have successfully shrunk many large panels over the years using the burner and a wet rag and good hammers.
The propane burner can in many cases be a better solution than the oxy because the heat is much softer and the heating area is larger than the oxy tip. As always experiment first.

Quenching after applying heat is not the correct way to do it.  Heat until red about size of 5c piece, hammer/dolly and leave to cool on its own.  This way the metal doesn't harden and can still be metal finished.

"This way the metal doesn't harden and can still be metal finished."
The annealing process (mild heating with no quenching) is the final step after the shape has been restored.
I avoid heating past light blue.
But we each have our own ways of doing things.  :)