Not off hand, it was just a bit of cut round bar with the pin hole size drilled close to the edge . It took place of the rubber locater ring bit which got cut off. USA do it a lot which is where I got the idea . I've even ovalled the locater hole in the diff platform but that was last ditch attempt.
If you can get away without any mods that would be fantastic.

Big question, are the arch lips rolled?

Big hole on the diff is 28mm and the leaf pin bolt size is 18mm. Hope this helps

Quick update, got a few more hours today and wrapped up installing the pedals and booster tower. I had to clean up and paint the brake rod and pivot bracket too as they were looking tired.
 

 
Then it was putting it together and getting it situated, the studs on the pedal box itself are a bit cocked so getting it in was a bit of a mission, got there in the end though. 
 

 

 
Getting the new brake rod boot situated in the firewall wasnt as bad as I thought it would be, just needed some elbow grease. Also the left front wheels studs got some time in the bath, they're ready to go on but the nut I was using to pull them in is getting a little notchy so I need to grab a new one from the fasteners before finishing them up.
 

I managed to get some time in the garage last night, getting closer to running some brake lines. Small update, decided to go with the booster Marty posted a few pages back - 6 inch hotrod booster, needed a little bit of modification to the grantry and master cylinder but managed to get it in place.


 
I had to elongate the holes on the MC - there is still a good amount of material to the outside - may add a pass of weld to the outside to give it a bit more meat and shape it back - undecided because the heat could make the mount brittle.
 

 
I had a look at swapping over the rods like you suggested Marty but I encountered a problem - the swing bracket only goes in one way and the plate blocks the rod from going to the back. If I flip the swing bracket around it doesn't sit flush on the stop so the pedal will be lower.


 
The biggest pain in the ass was adjusting the output rod on the booster, there isnt a lot of "feel" in it and the last thing you want is space inbetween the output rod and the cup on the master, will stuff up the pedal travel and if its pushing on it the brakes can drag.
 
Next up is taking the cylinder back off and giving it a lick of paint.

right, I'm not posting any pics anymore, im done.
You guys are taking this perfection thing to the next  level. 
 
These are meant to be 25 years old + cars being done by blokes in sheds without paint booths and with secondhand bits. Now they are museum worthy.

Yeah deano, your doing a great job on your van , it's excellent 👍.
Mark I still am amazed at how arrow straight you RS is , those pics a few ago of the tyres and axle being a few mm out comparison....I didn't know what I was looking at for the flat glossy quarter panel and reflection off the roller door, had my eyes go all donkey trying to fathom it...!

Welcome to the 3D printer club Mark, hope you'll have lots of fun and creative stuff you can make .yes they are easy these days just find a file and either Wi-Fi or SD card it to the printer and let it do it's thing . Mine can do both but prefer SD card.
My printer exploded yesterday, accidently poked a screwdriver into the hot end fan and sheared off 3 blades which unbalanced it and ruined what I was printing. So have got 4x on order from Ali at the same price as 1 on eBay and postage time.
I sent deano a file the other day of a pinto intake manifold which we've both been working on, I finally cracked it and it's nearly set for printing after a bit of tidying up , all done on the tinkercad site. Fusion 360 is still a bit to absorb for me, blender is ok, gimp is another, there's so many to use these days, it's what your needs and complexity your wanting.
Funny thing, I've never done a benchy, it's usually the first thing everyone prints .